Millebières

Bourglinster, LuxembourgmapPin

9/10

Last modified: 01/02/2022

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The Luxembourgish craft beer scene has been thriving in recent years, and amazing local breweries such as Totenhopfen, Bare Brewing and the Bouneweger Brauerei are well known far beyond the borders of the Grand Duchy. However, there are only a couple of places in Luxembourg where you can actually enjoy local and international craft beers, whether that's canned or on tap. One of our personal favourites is Millebières in Bourglinster.
The Concept
When Millebières opened in 2019, it quickly became a local favourite. The traditional pub culture in Luxembourg is slowly dying out and not many places reminiscent of the good old times remain. Back when each village had at least one pub - or "Café" how they call them in Luxembourgish - and where the men would meet up at the end of their shift, drink whatever local was on tap and chatted about the latest village gossip. Millebières' atmosphere reminds me of these times, with a modern twist. They managed to capture the character of these traditional pubs by preserving parts of the vintage furniture and the moody atmosphere, but added a 15-tap beer system.
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Millebières roughly translates to "1000 beers" and with one of the most extensive tap systems in the whole country, there definitely is no shortage of great beers. Their goal is to showcase as many local and international craft beers as possible, so that you enjoy amazing craft beer, whatever your taste and preference.
One of the reasons the owners chose this location was because it was one of the very few places in the country that came without a beer supply agreement. This obliges a tenant to source some (or all) of their beers from one brewery, and might even prohibit them from selling products from other suppliers. In Luxembourg, these agreements are often bound to the pub itself, so if you buy a pub, you also take over the beer supply contract. As this pub, once entitled "Café Dohm", is not bound by such an agreement, the owners are free to serve whatever beer they like, bringing the abandoned village pub back to life.
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In addition to craft beer - canned or on tap - this bar has a large selection of spirits and a smaller selection of wines. A large part of their drink range actually comes from Luxembourgish brands and producers, so it is absolutely worth checking out the local specialities, such as spirits from the Hierber Brennerei, the traditional "Hunnegdrepp" (schnapps infused with honey), or of the many amazing Luxembourgish gins. So, even if you are not a beer enthusiast, there surely is a drink on the menu that you enjoy. During the summer, there are weekly cocktail specials such as an iced strawberry margarita or frozen watermelon gin, which is one of my personal favourites, and in the winter, they serve homemade mulled wine.
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Besides beer and drinks, Millebières has a weekly-changing food menu of snacks, mains and desserts with staples such as burgers, traditional Luxembourgish food, vegan options as well as creative fusion dishes. Make sure to follow them on Instagram or Facebook, where they usually post their current food and drink menus.
The Bar
Just imagine rustic, wooden furniture, exposed brick walls, comfy sofas and a cosy atmosphere: that's Millebières. It is by far not a traditional restaurant, but a pub with a lot of character and charm that serves great food. There are actually no menus on the tables, but the beer and food menus are written on large blackboards on the walls, so you actually have to get up to check them out (tip: take pictures). The pub is effectively divided into two, one large dining area with tables and sofas and the bar area with high chairs and tables and of course, there are some coveted spots at the bar.
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One important thing to note is that Millebières is only open Thursday through Saturday, lunch through dinner, and tables are in high demand, so make sure to give them a call to book your table ahead of time. During the summer, they also have tables out front to enjoy your beer while catching some sun. Millebières is dog-friendly, so don't hesitate to bring your furry friend along! They do not have a dedicated parking, but there is a public parking just a minute's walk away.
Bourglinster itself is a very beautiful, old village just north of Luxembourg city. It lies a bit hidden in a valley, only accessible via twisty, cobblestone roads and an old medieval castle towers over the village: the Château Bourglinster. This historic landmark is actually home to the famous Distillerie restaurant, which has been voted the best veggie restaurant in the world for two years in a row now. Besides great food, Bourglinster has an array of hiking trails and is also very popular with cyclists. So, if you find yourself thirsty and hungry after a tour, make sure to stop at Millebières to rehydrate. Or even better, choose a route that leads you past Millebières!
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The Beer
We do wanna talk a bit more in detail about the beer at Millebières because they truly embody the spirit of craft beer: independent. Here, you will find beers from craft beer breweries all over the world. The beer menu is usually very balanced and includes local favourites, a nice selection of IPAs and NE IPAs, sour beers as well as ales and stouts. Beers on tap are available in three different sizes, small, medium or large, and prices vary depending on the size you pick. Check out their current menu on Untapped.
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Renowned craft beer breweries, such as Mad Scientist, Garden Brewery, Tanker, Poppels, Peninsula and Totenhopfen can be found on tap here. Millebières is actually the best place to find Totenhopfen - the best local craft beer brewery there is, in our humble opinion - on tap in Luxembourg. Sometimes, you can even find beer from faraway places, such as Bold Brewing from Brazil and of course some alcohol-free beers that actually taste good. There is always something new to discover on the tap menu or in the beer fridge! If you want to know what we are drinking at Millebières, check out Chris´ and my Untappd profiles! And in case you are overwhelmed by the selection, just ask one of their friendly staff members, and they gladly give you some recommendations.
The Food
Millebières originally started out as a bar, and over time they have introduced more and more items to their food menu. Now, they have a weekly changing menu of hearty, home-cooked meals, with meat, fish and vegan options. The kitchen has come a long way over the last two years! Whereas some dishes used to be a bit hit or miss, the items you find on the menu nowadays are stellar, in taste and execution.
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Chilli Burger with seasoned fries and a side salad
Though they make mostly straightforward food with without any chichi, the kitchen is actually quite open-minded, so if you have any dietary restrictions, do not hesitate to let them know, and they will try their best to accommodate your requests. There have a few staple items, such as burgers, but the kitchen is definitely not afraid to try out new dishes and unusual combinations (such as a poke bowl with ahimi - vegan tuna). The menu is quite seasonal, with game and stews in the winter, refreshing salads in the summer, and they always have a veggie and/or vegan option, which is not always a given for a pub. One of my favourite dishes is their spicy Thai salad with tofu, as well as their beef steak. Whether it's tofu or beef, they know how to cook it right. Plus, the servings are quite generous, so you will not leave hungry.
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Bouchée à la reine aka Vol-au-vent
Only looking for a small bite to eat? There is a snack section on the menu with some savoury treats like Kachkéis nachos (Kachkéis is a strong, melty Luxembourgish cheese, perfect for dipping your nachos), falafel or homemade chicken nuggets, which are just so much better than any store-bought chicken nuggets. Their desserts are also something you should not skip. Classics, such as crème brûlée or trifles, are homemade with love and the perfect conclusion to your meal. Overall, the prices might be a bit higher than at other bars, but considering the restaurant-like quality, they are more than fair.
The People
Millebières might not be the fanciest of places, but is a comfy place with a lot of heart, and you'll feel right at home. The people running Millebières are simply great - laid-back, welcoming and very knowledgeable about beer. This craft beer bar is actually mostly run by women in the front-of-house and the kitchen, and the service is fun and sassy. On the weekend, things can get a bit busy, but they'll always make sure that you have something to drink!
The owners of Millebières also run the Brasserie Um Tennis in Senningen as well as Ob der Breck in Koplescht, where you can get good Thai food. At both of these locations you can find a small, though limited selection of craft beers. In case you are looking for a bit more of a fancier place to enjoy your beer, Craft Corner in Bonnevoie might be an option for you.
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The Place to Be?
This really is a no-brainer: great beer, good food, kind people - what more could you possibly want? Millebières accomplishes what many fail to achieve: creating a cosy, welcoming place with great beer that serves restaurant-quality food. This pub and its people are definitely worth the trip; just come in, grab a beer and enjoy the buzz of this place - if it's the weekend, chances are, we're there too!
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