Copenhagen

Last modified: 22/04/2019

First of, Copenhagen is expensive. I was traveling to Denmark on business during December and coming from a country with high living costs, I was genuinely surprised by the amount I ended up spending per meal. The quality of food was unsurprisingly amazing and the Scandinavian cuisine has quickly become one of my favorite but I don't know if I would travel there again privately, just because it is so expensive.

Omegn & Venner

8/10

Frederiksborggade 21, 1362 Copenhagen, Denmark

Torvehallerne is a very well-known food hall in Copenhagen, made up of two industrial, glass warehouses, featuring over 60 stalls inside and out of the buildings, selling everything from meat and seafood to baked goods and fresh fruits and vegetables, chocolate and sweets as well as exotic items. However, there not only vendors selling their produce but you can also find quite a few stalls where you can have small bits to eat, drink a cup of coffee or enjoy healthy and not so healthy snacks.

I found Omegn & Venner while wandering around Torvehallerne and looking for a place to have a small bite to eat. On one side of their stall they locally sourced, organic produce ranging from bread to meat produce and cheeses. On the other side, at the counter, they are cooking up creations made from produce they are selling themselves or from other quality vendors in the halls. One of the dishes on their menu were mussels. The cook quickly hoped over to the fishmonger to pick up some fresh mussels to prepare them on the spot for the client.

I chose the roasted pumping with hazelnuts and raw brussel sprouts with a sour cream foam on top. So simple, but just so rich in terms of flavors and textures that in fact I ended up coming back on my last day in Copenhagen to have it again. This dish has actually inspired me to try to integrate more roasted nuts into my dishes.

I was visiting Copenhagen in the beginning of December and so most places had Christmas beers on tab and this place actually had a really nice one. The second time around I opted for a glass of red wine. They have a couple of open bottles of reds and whites, so they should have something to your liking.

When I entered the food hall, the first thing I saw was a bakery shop selling different variations of cinnamon rolls, small ones, bis ones, with frosting, without frosting. It smelled heavenly. I knew that after my lunch I would be stopping buy LAURAS BAKERY to pick one of them up. Scandinavians really do know how to make a great cinnamon roll. Can absolutely recommend both of these stalls and the Torvehallerne overall.

Puk

7/10

Vandkunsten 8, 1467 Copenhagen, Denmark

Upon my arrival in Copenhagen, I was on a mission to find some great smoerebroed. So while walking around the city center in the afternoon I simply looked up some recommendations for danish restaurants and made my way to the first one. Little did I know that Danish people seem to take their lunches seriously as the restaurant was complete and fully booked, even in the afternoon. To my surprise I found the same scenario at the next two restaurants that I tried. Finally, close to giving up I came by Puk's, an historic restaurant in central Copenhagen, and the waiters were so kind to clear a table for me and my companion in the back of the restaurant, right next to the cellar door, which led to a couple of awkward situations of slammed doors against my chair and me having to get up to let people in and out, which would have been no worry at all would people have apologized. That was just a bit unfortunate as the food and the rest of the service was great, and I was grateful that we could get a table as also this restaurant was packed.

The restaurant is actually at basement level, so you have to walk down a flight of stairs from the street, which I found is quite common for traditional danish restaurant in Copenhagen. It actually is one of Copenhagen's oldest restaurants and apparently in the late 19th century King Christian VII and his mistress were regular visitors. They cook up classic Danish dished, using local produce. If you want to get the full experience, try one of their tasting menu which comes with several servings of different dishes.

My choice actually surprised myself. I chose a Smoerebroed, which in this case was a dark rye bread, topped with boiled potatoes and sour cream, radishes and a couple of crisps. So simple, yet so delicious and I absolutely enjoyed every bite of it. My companion had Swedish meatballs with red cabbage and potatoes. Really down the earth dishes, paired of course with a nice glass of Christmas beer, just so satisfying.

Koefoed

9/10

Landgreven 3, 1301 Copenhagen, Denmark

Koefoed is located in the center of Copenhagen, near Nyhavn, and the restaurant itself actually occupies an old coal cellar, which has been tastefully refurbished scandi style. Though sophisticated and simple it still emits a cozy atmosphere. Koefoed actually has been awarded an "Assiette Michelin" or Michelin Plate by the Michelin Guide, so this is not your average corner joint. An Michelin Plate is a new category introduced recently by the guide and indicated restaurants where you can get quality food. When checking places in Copenhagen for business dinners I had come across the restaurant a couple of times during my search, however, dinner prices are steep and so it did not make the cut. However, I had kept in mind that they do a lunch service, serving exclusively smoerebroed, at a more reasonable price.

So, we did end up having a business lunch at Koefoed, which actually gets many of its produce from small producers from the island of Bornholm, located in the Baltic sea. For their lunch concept they have taken traditional smoerebroad, so open-faced sandwiches, and elevated them with quality ingredients and served in a contemporary style on homemade rye bread. Another plus, service was very professional, a bit slow in the beginning but very forthcoming the rest of the meal and staff is very knowledgeable about the food.

As we all had difficulties choosing just one type of smoerebroed we all took two. My first choice was fried plaice, a white fish with a homemade remoulade sauce, a lemon wedge & herbs, served with a side of the famous rye bread in a cute little felt pouch on the side. As second dish I had chosen again the bread and potato kind, as I had enjoyed it so much at Puk's and I wanted to see what Koefoed would do with it. Bread, potatoes, mayonnaise-sour cream mix, crispy onions, chives and the best bacon I have ever eaten in my life! Just the perfect thickness and crisped up to perfection.

One very special thing about this restaurant is that they are actually producing their own "Aquavit" a Scandinavian schnapps, usually drunk after or even during meals. It is said to be good for your digestion and your health in general. The one we tried was actually brewed with dill, so it had a very subtle taste of the herb and it was indeed very wholesome. When going to any Scandinavian country, Aquavit is a must and I made sure to pick up a bottle at the airport to take home with me. The waiter at Koefoed was so kind to give us some recommendations.

Balderdash

7/10

Valkendorfsgade 11, 1151 Copenhagen, Denmark

We wanted to grab an aperitif before going to the restaurant during our last night in Copenhagen, and I wanted to go somewhere special. I found Balderdash, a little cocktail bar in a side street in central Copenhagen, while combing through all the reviews online. When we arrived we were greeted by the barkeeper who arranged two seats for us at the bar, which actually has a beautiful display case to showcase all their bottles of alcohol. The barkeep, who actually spoke a boatload of languages, took his time to help us find our drinks. We actually enjoyed the atmosphere and our drinks so much that we stayed for a second round. For more information check out their Facebook page.

Bottom Line

Yes, Copenhagen is expensive. Even when I was making an effort to choose a cheaper dish and limited myself to one drink, I still ended up spending the amount I would have spent for a more substantial dinner in Luxembourg. When looking at the price point, Omegn & Venner is definitely the most affordable restaurant with 10 Euros for the dish but also the one in the most informal setting, which should not deter you from going there as I really enjoyed sitting at the bar doing some people-watching. But it is by no means a restaurant in the traditional sense, more a bar counter where you can get some great food. I would consider Puk moderately priced for Danish circumstances at 11 Euros and there is a large variety of menu items at varying price points. Koefoed was the most expensive one with 15 Euros per Smoerebroed but considering the setting, service and quality of food (and of course their Michelin Plate) this is well worth the price. If I would have to make a choice between these three, I would have to go with Koefoed, simply because of the bacon and the Aquavit.